Our Last Views of Leh.

Main Bazaar in Leh.

After leaving his mom and home behind in Stok, Dorje drove us back to Leh. I had no idea where he was taking us and for whatever reason, I had completely forgotten about having him take us to visit those places that I had made a mental note that we had to go see.  Oh well.

A Visit With Dorje and His Mom.

Chantale and Dorje's lovely mother. She's wearing the NYC baseball cap that Chantale had just gifted her.

Without a doubt, the most memorable part of today was spending time with Dorje and his mom in their family home where his mother treated us to some home made curd, freshly brewed butter tea and chapati.

Visiting Stok.

The first thing we had to do this morning was say goodbye to Ayşe who left us early to return to Turkey to spend more time with her family before returning home to the US. I was fast asleep until I heard her alarm go off.  I waited for her to get ready to literally walk out the door before I got out of bed to give her a big hug and to wish her a safe journey.  Tashi had arranged for a car and driver to take her to the airport so I told her to let me know if her ride did not show up.

Hemis Festival. The End.

The dance performance of The Five Tshog Len and The Ten Great Ging was the last of the day.  It was an incredible set of performances though the festival day was not yet quite over. There's a closing ceremony, if you will

Hemis Festival. The Five Tshog Len and The Ten Great Ging.

The Five Tshog Len and The Ten Great Ging were the last two dance performances and the performances overlap so I'm including both on one post.

Hemis Festival. The Five Chemchog Heruka.

After a joyous dance performance by the Four Lords of the Graveyards (some metal rock band should take this name!), the Five Chemchog Heruka make their appearance in the courtyard.

Hemis Festival. The Four Goma.

The Four Gomas aka Four Gatekeepers work to protect sentient beings.

Hemis Festival. Serkyem.

After the performance by the 12 Zhing Kyong, the Serkeyem takes place. The Serkyem is a libation or beverage offering rite performed by the Acharya or Lobpon (main teacher of the Hemis  Monastery). 

Hemis Festival. The Twelve Zhing Kyong.

After about an hour long intermission during which I think pretty much every one turned into a lunch hour, the dance performances resumed at the sound of the horns. 

Hemis Festival. Lunch Break!

Clockwise from the woman with the scarf on her head.  That's Dorje's sister, her son, Dorje and Dorje's mom.

The morning dance performances took up about 2.5 hours. To me, it felt like maybe an hour of time had elapsed. I guess I was so focused on watching the dances and taking photos that I didn't even notice how quickly time had flown by.

The Hemis Festival. The EIght Manifestations of Padmasambhava.

After the sixteen dancers wearing copper gilded masks have chanted the invocation mantra of Padmasambhava, his eight manifestations appear.  The manifestations are the principal forms that Padmasambhava assumed at different points in his life.

Hemis Festival. Bringing Down Blessings.

The second dance is called Bringing Down Blessings which is performed by sixteen dancers wearing copper gilded masks.  They represent fairies that purify the place, the teaches and the disciples. Their function is to consecrate; to bring down blessings from higher beings.  Carrying a damaru (hand drum) in one hand and a bell in the other, the dance and chant to invocation mantra of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche).

Hemis Festival. Setting the Limits or The 13 Black Hat Dancers.

The first sacred dance of the Hemis Festival is called Setting the Limits or the 13 Black Hat Dancers. Thirteen monks perform wearing tantric dress with symbolic meaning. With their spiritual power and through the ritual gestures and dancing that evoke divine wrath, they cut off evil spirits and negative influences. In the process, they set a physical boundary so that no entity may enter the sacred space or bring obstacles. This performance is therefore called Setting Limits.

Hemis Festival. The Opening.

Today was the day that the entire trip to India was planned around!  Today was the day we attended the Hemis Festival, held in the monastery of the same name.  Because I shot more photos and videos and wanted to showcase as many as I can, I am splitting my Hemis Festival postings into several.  This is posting is just an introduction, covering up until the moment the mask dances begin.  Each dance will be presented in its own posting.

One More Roadtrip Back to Leh. Thiksey Monastery.

Ayşe posing with two of the young monks we had lunch with at Thiksey Monastery.

It wasn't the best night's sleep last night but apparently I fared much better than my two travel companions who were so well encased inside their Silk Cocoon mummies that they basically could not move around in bed.  Poor Ayşe complained she was so sardined (is that a verb?) in that couldn't even roll over from one side to another!  I just had to laugh at her.  To top it off, I was worried that the girls would be too cold at night so I piled all the extra blankets on to top of them.  It seemed they didn't need the extra blankets because it turned out they were too hot!  Why didn't they just throw off a blanket?  I just had to laugh at them!

Stunning Beauty. Pangong Tso.

Five hours after we left Leh, we arrived into Pangong Tso, gorgeous turquoise colored water lake nestled in the Himalayas. Situated at an elevation of about 4,420 meters (14,500 feet), about a quarter of the lake is located with the borders of India, the rest is in China. It is considered a sacred by Tibetans. For me, it was just a breath taking sight.  I am so glad that we gave up the trek, which would have been might torturous for me, to come here.  The lake reminds me a lot of Yamdrok Tso which is a lake I visited when I was in Tibet in 2007.  For the gals, this is the first time they've ever seen scenery like this and I know they will not soon forget it.

Another Road Trip, Another Mountain Pass. Chang La.

Another road trip, another mountain pass, another selfie 😁

Today was suppose to be a start of a day trek but instead, we embarked on a road trip to Pangong Tso.  Since this was literally a last second change to our itinerary, I had not done any reading about what this road trip would be like.  I had no clue it would involve going over another really high altitude mountain pass!

A Mountain Pass And a Couple of Avalanches.

Back at Nyamgal Guesthouse, we said our goodbye's to Tsering and wished her much success in finishing up with her college degree.  We then rushed back to our rooms and quickly repacked our back packs.  Of course, Chantale....with all her gear, had the most stuff to pack up but in no time, we were ready to hit the road with Dorje.

For the Kids.

We awoke this morning to the news that heavy snowfall had fallen over night in the area around Khardung La Pass.  For safety reasons, the road was closed.  Dorje was in contact with the office as well as several of his fellow drivers.  At best, we could begin to make our way back around noon so for now, we were stuck in Sumur.  Not idea but nothing anyone can do so we just had to be patient.

Nubra Valley. Lunch in Sumur & Samstaling Monastery.

With young boys (monks perhaps?) at Samstaling Monastery.

Technically speaking the Nubra Valley actually comprises two valleys: Nubra and Shyok, each sharing the name of the river that flows through the valley.  Hundur and Diskit Monastery are in the Shyok Valley. The two valleys and the two rivers join in the region’s heart near Diskit before flowing westwards into Pakistan to eventually join the mighty Indus.